It’s a fresh protein without much flavor ( aji).” Multiple dipping sauces often accompany raw chicken to add additional depth of flavor.Ĭampylobacter is the leading source of food poisoning from Japan’s raw chicken dishes. He explained, “For tori-sashi, it’s really okay to just use breast tenderloin ( sasami), but there are various combinations. Standing behind the counter, the chef had thirty years of experience tending the coals ( sumibi) at this restaurant. Delicious!” We both marveled that such a dish was possible and that it was actually delectable. “This is great! My first time.” My friend responded, “You can eat it as sashimi. Eventually, the burning subsided and I tried another. I used far too much of the chile daikon paste on my first piece of raw chicken, and so, rather than focusing on this novel food, I had a coughing fit. We ordered raw chicken ( tori sashi), which featured seared raw breast tenderloin ( sasami) served with garnishes like shiso leaf, a chile daikon paste ( momiji oroshi), and two dipping sauces-one, wasabi soy sauce, and the other ponzu (a sauce usually made with a citrus fruit like yuzu and soy sauce) (see figure 1). The menu listed several options for raw chicken ( tori no sashimi), including raw liver, gizzard, combination platter, and seared chicken ( tataki). I went with a new friend to a yakitori (chicken parts on skewers) restaurant in Miyazaki City. I ate raw chicken for the first time two weeks after I arrived in the field. This analysis of raw chicken in Japan illustrates the need to go beyond superficial encounters with unfamiliar cuisines to engage with the underlying social and ecological forces that shape situated expressions of risk within culinary practice. I then contextualize these trends through interviews with hygiene division officials in Saga Prefecture and Miyazaki Prefecture, two prefectures that employ different strategies to reduce their high rates of food poisoning from raw chicken. Drawing on government statistics of food poisoning, I analyze trends in documented incidents, geographic variation, and demographic composition. Historically, raw chicken was mostly limited to particular regions and breast meat, but it has recently expanded more broadly throughout Japan and encompasses riskier cuts from internal organs. This article explores the lax regulations on raw chicken, a high-risk food with a devoted following, especially among young consumers in Japan. Over the past decade in Japan, consumption of raw chicken dishes increased after the government placed restrictions on raw beef and pork.
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